The two stitches that start everything!

If you’re just getting into knitting, there are two stitches you’ll hear about right away:

1. The knit stitch
2. The purl stitch

And once you learn these two… you can create almost anything!

Seriously — every sweater, every scarf, every hat, every blanket you’ve ever admired that was knitted? It was made with some combination of just these two stitches. That’s the magic of knitting. Two stitches, infinite possibilities.

In this tutorial I’ll walk you through both stitches step by step, with easy rhymes to help the movements stick in your memory, plus tips for common mistakes and what you can make once you know both.

Before You Start — What You’ll Need

• Knitting needles (US size 7 or 8 are great for beginners — big enough to see what you’re doing!)
• Worsted weight yarn in a light or medium color (avoid dark yarn when learning — it’s hard to see your stitches)
• A cast-on row of stitches to practice on (check out the Long Tail Cast On tutorial if you need help getting started!)

Tip on yarn color: This matters more than beginners expect! Dark navy, black, or charcoal yarn makes it very difficult to see individual stitches, especially when you’re learning. Choose a medium gray, cream, tan, or any light color for your practice work. Your eyes will thank you!

Why Knit and Purl Matter

These two stitches are the entire foundation of knitting.

• Knit stitches create a smooth V shape — you’ll see these V’s stacking up in columns on the front of your work
• Purl stitches create a small textured bump on the side facing you

Here’s the beautiful secret: a knit stitch and a purl stitch are actually the same stitch seen from opposite sides. When you knit a stitch and look at the back of your work, it looks like a purl. When you purl a stitch and look at the back, it looks like a knit. They’re two sides of the same coin!

This is why combining them in different sequences creates completely different fabrics:

• All knit stitches every row → garter stitch (ridged, squishy, reversible)
• Knit one row, purl one row, alternating → stockinette stitch (smooth on one side, bumpy on the other — the classic “knit fabric” look)
• Alternating knit and purl stitches in the same row → ribbing (stretchy, great for cuffs and hems)
• Various combinations → seed stitch, moss stitch, basketweave, and hundreds more

Master these two stitches and the entire world of knitting patterns opens up to you!

How to Knit (Step-by-Step)

Before you begin:

Make sure your working yarn is held at the back of your work — behind the needle, away from you. This is the starting position for every knit stitch.

The Knit Stitch Rhyme 🎵

This little rhyme describes every single step of the knit stitch. Say it out loud as you work — it genuinely helps the motion stick!

“Through the front door, around the back, peek through the window, off jumps Jack!”

Here’s what each line means:

Knit Step 1: Insert Your Needle — “Through the front door”

Insert your right needle tip into the front of the first stitch on your left needle, coming in from left to right and going underneath — so the right needle enters from the front and pokes through to the back.

Push the right needle all the way through until it’s sitting behind the left needle. This crossed position — right needle behind left needle — is your correct setup position for a knit stitch! If your needle is in front of the left needle, it’s not inserted correctly.

Tip: The two needles should form an X shape, with the right needle behind. Think of it as the right needle sneaking around behind the left needle to grab the yarn.

Knit Step 2: Wrap the Yarn — “Around the back”

Now bring your working yarn (the strand connected to your ball) around the back of the right needle from right to left, then forward between the two needles so it’s sitting between them.

The yarn makes a loop around the right needle tip, sitting snugly in the groove of the hook. This wrapped yarn is the new stitch you’re about to create.

Knit Step 3: Pull Through — “Peek through the window”

Using your right needle, bring that wrapped yarn loop down and through the original stitch opening, pulling it toward you.

You’re essentially pulling the new loop of yarn through the old stitch — like threading it through a window. The new loop slides through and lands on your right needle.

Knit Step 4: Slide Off — “Off jumps Jack!”

Now take the original stitch — the one that was on the left needle when you started — and slide it off the tip of the left needle completely.

That old stitch is gone, replaced by the new loop now sitting on your right needle. You’ve just transferred one stitch from the left needle to the right needle, and in doing so created a new knit stitch.

Notice how the finished stitch has a clear V shape. That V is the signature of a knit stitch — those stacked V’s are what make stockinette fabric look so smooth and classic.

How to Purl (Step-by-Step)

Before you begin:

For a purl stitch, bring your working yarn to the front of your work — between the needles, toward you. This is the opposite of the knit stitch setup, and it’s the most important thing to remember when switching between knit and purl.

The Purl Stitch Rhyme 🎵

“Under the fence, catch the sheep, back we come, off we leap!”

Here’s what each line means:

Purl Step 1: Insert Your Needle — “Under the fence”

Insert your right needle into the front of the first stitch on your left needle, but this time going from right to left — the opposite direction of the knit stitch.

Your right needle enters from the right side of the stitch and points to the left. The right needle will be in front of the left needle (another difference from the knit stitch, where the right needle ends up behind).

Purl Step 2: Wrap the Yarn — “Catch the sheep”

Bring your working yarn over the top of the right needle from right to left, wrapping it counterclockwise. The yarn goes over the needle and hangs at the front.

Purl Step 3: Pull Through — “Back we come”

Now pull the wrapped yarn loop back through the stitch opening — away from you, toward the back of the work. You’re drawing the new loop from front to back through the original stitch.

This is the opposite pulling direction compared to a knit stitch (where you pull toward you). Going away from you is what creates the bump on the facing side.

Purl Step 4: Slide Off — “Off we leap!”

Let the original stitch drop completely off the left needle tip. The new purl stitch is now sitting on your right needle.

You made a purl stitch! Notice the small bump it creates on the side facing you — that’s the purl bump, and a row of them lined up is what gives reverse stockinette and garter stitch their characteristic texture.

The Key Difference to Remember

What Can You Make With Just Knit and Purl?

More than you’d think! Here are the most common fabric patterns you can create with these two stitches alone:

Garter Stitch: Knit every single row. The simplest possible pattern — produces a squishy, ridged fabric that looks the same on both sides. Great for scarves, dishcloths, and beginner projects.

Stockinette Stitch: Knit one row, purl one row, alternating. Creates the classic smooth-on-one-side, bumpy-on-the-other fabric you see in most sweaters and commercial knitwear.

Reverse Stockinette: Purl one row, knit one row — the opposite of stockinette. The bumpy “wrong” side of stockinette becomes the right side.

1×1 Ribbing: Knit 1 stitch, purl 1 stitch, alternating across the row, then repeat. Creates stretchy ribbed fabric perfect for cuffs, hat brims, and necklines.

2×2 Ribbing: Knit 2 stitches, purl 2 stitches, alternating. A slightly chunkier ribbing, very common in sweaters.

Seed Stitch: Knit 1, purl 1 across — but on the next row, purl the knit stitches and knit the purl stitches (the opposite of what’s below). Creates a beautiful textured fabric that lies flat and looks great as a border.

Common Beginner Mistakes and How to Fix Them

My stitch count keeps going up — I have more stitches than I started with. This almost always means you’re accidentally creating extra stitches. The most common culprit: bringing the yarn to the front before a knit stitch (which creates an accidental yarn over). Always check your yarn position before each stitch — back for knit, front for purl.

My fabric is twisting into a tube. This means you’re knitting all rows in the same direction without turning your work. At the end of each row, turn your work so the needle with stitches is in your left hand, and begin the next row from the other end.

My stitches are too tight to get the needle into. Relax your grip! Many beginners knit very tightly out of nervousness. Try consciously loosening your tension and not pulling the yarn so snugly after each stitch. A bigger needle can also help while you build confidence.

I can’t tell my knit stitches from my purl stitches. Look for the V shapes (knits) vs. the bumps (purls) on your needle. If you hold the work with the needle horizontal in your left hand and look at the stitches from the front, the V’s are knits and the bumps are purls. Recognizing your stitches by sight is a skill that develops with practice — stick with it!

My yarn keeps falling off the needle. Either your stitches are too loose, or you’re working too close to the needle tips. Slide your stitches back toward the middle of the needle where they’re more secure, and don’t let them creep too close to the point.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I always have to use the rhymes? Not at all — they’re just a memory tool for when you’re learning! Most knitters stop needing them after a few hours of practice. Once the motion is in your muscle memory, you won’t need the rhyme anymore. But many people find it genuinely helps in those first critical hours of learning, so use it for as long as it helps!

Which stitch should I learn first? Always learn the knit stitch first. It’s slightly easier, and knitting every row (garter stitch) is the simplest possible project — a great way to practice. Once knitting feels comfortable, add the purl stitch.

Is knitting or purling harder? Most beginners find purling slightly more awkward at first because the needle direction and yarn position feel more counterintuitive. But with just a few rows of practice, purling becomes just as natural as knitting.

What’s the difference between knitting English style and Continental style? English style (also called throwing) means you hold the working yarn in your right hand and throw it around the needle. Continental style means you hold the yarn in your left hand and pick it with the needle tip. Both produce identical results — it’s purely a preference. This tutorial shows English style, which is the most common method for beginners in North America.

My purl stitches look bigger or looser than my knit stitches — is that normal? Very common! Many knitters purl slightly looser than they knit. This is a tension habit that usually evens out with practice. If it’s very noticeable, try holding the yarn slightly more firmly when purling, or try going down half a needle size for purl rows until your tension evens out naturally.

How long does it take to get comfortable with knit and purl? Everyone is different, but most beginners feel comfortable with the knit stitch after 1–2 hours of practice, and add the purl stitch comfortably within the first few days. The key is consistent practice — even 15–20 minutes a day makes a huge difference.

This may take a few tries, but I promise — with practice and a slow pace, your hands will catch the rhythm. And once they do, you’ll never forget it!

Happy knitting,

~Angie

This post contains affiliate links, which means I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. Thank you for supporting my work 🩷