Want a beautiful left-leaning decrease in your knitting?

Want a beautiful left-leaning decrease in your knitting?

Today I want to show you two simple decreasing stitches:

SKP and SK2P

These are beautiful left-slanting decreases that are commonly used in lace knitting, leaf patterns, decorative shaping, and projects that need mirrored decreases.

And although the names sound complicated… they’re actually very easy once you see them step-by-step. And you’ll feel so fancy that you know how to do these!

Before we dive in — if you’ve ever felt confused about which decrease to use when, or why some decreases lean left and others lean right, this tutorial is going to be a lightbulb moment for you. Let’s go!

Understanding Left-Leaning Decreases

In knitting, decreases are stitches that reduce your stitch count — you go in with two (or more) stitches and come out with one. But not all decreases are created equal! The direction a decrease leans matters a LOT for how your finished fabric looks.

Right-leaning decreases (like K2TOG) slant toward the right. The top stitch of the decrease lies on top of and points to the right.

Left-leaning decreases (like SKP and SSK) slant toward the left. The top stitch lies on top of and points to the left.

Why does this matter? Because in most knitting patterns, decreases are used in symmetrical pairs — one leaning right on one side of a project, and one leaning left on the other side. When you use matching left and right decreases, the shaping looks intentional, balanced, and professional. When you use the wrong lean, the decrease lines fight each other and the shaping looks off.

What Does SKP Mean?

SKP stands for: Slip 1, Knit 1, Pass Slipped Stitch Over

Breaking it down word by word:

• Slip 1 — move one stitch from your left needle to your right needle without knitting it
• Knit 1 — knit the next stitch normally
• Pass Slipped Stitch Over — lift the slipped stitch up and over the knit stitch and off the needle

The result: two stitches go in, one stitch comes out. Your stitch count decreases by one, and the finished stitch leans to the left.

You may also see SKP written as:

• skp (lowercase)
• sl1, k1, psso (written out in full)
• sl-k-psso

All of these mean exactly the same thing!

What Does SK2P Mean?

SK2P stands for: Slip 1, Knit 2 Together, Pass Slipped Stitch Over

It’s the same concept as SKP, but instead of knitting just one stitch in the middle, you knit TWO stitches together (K2TOG). Then you still pass the slipped stitch over.

The result: three stitches go in, one stitch comes out. Your stitch count decreases by TWO, and the decrease leans to the left with the center stitch sitting on top.

SK2P is also called a centered double decrease because the center stitch sits neatly on top of the two stitches on either side of it — creating a very clean, symmetrical point. It’s beautiful in lace and leaf patterns where a sharp decorative decrease is part of the design!

You may also see it written as:

• sk2p (lowercase)
• sl1, k2tog, psso (written out)
• s1-k2tog-psso
• CDD (Central Double Decrease — same stitch, different name used by some designers)

Where You’ll See These Decreases in Patterns

SKP appears in:

• Hat crown decrease rounds (alternating with K2TOG for balanced shaping)
• Raglan shaping (left side of raglan lines)
• Shawl edge decreases
• Sock toe shaping
• Any pattern that calls for a left-leaning single decrease

SK2P appears in:

Anywhere a centered double decrease is needed for a symmetrical point

Lace patterns — it creates the sharp central decrease point in leaf and feather motifs

Center spine decreases in triangular shawls

Decorative decrease points in stitch patterns

Step-by-Step: How to Knit SKP:

SKP Step 1: Slip Your First Stitch Knitwise

Slip the first stitch from your left needle onto your right needle as if to knit — insert the right needle from left to right, just like you’re about to knit, but don’t wrap the yarn. Just slide the stitch across.

This is called slipping knitwise, and it’s important! Slipping knitwise twists the stitch slightly, which is what gives SKP its clean left-leaning appearance. If you slip purlwise instead, the stitch sits differently on the needle and the decrease won’t look as tidy.

Step 2: Knit the Next Stitch

Knit the very next stitch on your left needle exactly as you normally would — yarn over, pull through, slide off. A completely regular knit stitch.

You now have two stitches on your right needle: the slipped stitch and the new knit stitch. The slipped stitch is sitting to the right of (behind) the knit stitch.

Step 3: Locate Your Slipped Stitch

Look at your right needle — you’ll see the knit stitch you just made sitting at the front, and just behind it (to the right, closer to the needle tip) is the slipped stitch.

Take a moment to clearly identify which stitch is which before the next step. The slipped stitch is the one you need to lift over — make sure you can see it clearly!

SKP Step 4: Insert Your Left Needle Into the Slipped Stitch

Insert the tip of your left needle into the slipped stitch from the front — going in from left to right under the slipped stitch, from the front of the fabric toward the back.

You’re just picking it up with the left needle tip — the goal is to get the tip under the stitch so you can lift it. Don’t pull anything yet!

Step 5: Pass the Slipped Stitch Over

With the slipped stitch on your left needle tip, lift it up and over the knit stitch and off the right needle completely.

The motion is: lift up, move left over the knit stitch, release off the needle tip. The slipped stitch passes over the knit stitch and drops off — just like the “pass slipped stitch over” (PSSO) in a basic bind off!

You’ve completed an SKP decrease! Look at the finished stitch — you’ll notice it leans gently to the left. That’s the SKP doing exactly what it’s supposed to do!

What You’ll Notice After SKP

Your stitches will now slant slightly to the LEFT at the decrease point. This is why SKP is so often paired with K2TOG (a right-leaning decrease) — together they create beautifully balanced, mirrored shaping that frames your project symmetrically.

In a hat crown for example, you’d work SKP at the beginning of each decrease section and K2TOG at the end, so both sides of each decrease point mirror each other perfectly.

Step-by-Step: How to Knit SK2P:

SK2P is SKP’s bigger sibling — same starting move, but you knit TWO stitches together in the middle instead of one. This makes it a double decrease that removes two stitches at once while keeping that beautiful left-leaning centerline.

SK2P Step 1: Slip Your First Stitch Knitwise

Exactly the same as SKP Step 1 — slip one stitch from your left needle to your right needle as if to knit (knitwise). The same rules apply: slip knitwise, not purlwise!

SK2P Step 2: Knit the Next Two Stitches Together (K2TOG)

Instead of knitting just one stitch like in SKP, insert your right needle through the next two stitches on your left needle at the same time and knit them together as one stitch.

This is a standard K2TOG decrease — insert right needle from left to right through both stitches simultaneously, wrap yarn, pull through, slide both stitches off the left needle together.

You now have two stitches on your right needle: the slipped stitch and the K2TOG stitch.

SK2P Step 3: Find the Slipped Stitch

Just like in SKP Step 3 — locate the slipped stitch on your right needle. It’s the stitch to the right of (behind) the K2TOG stitch you just made. Make sure you can clearly see it before proceeding!

SK2P Step 4: Insert Your Left Needle Into the Slipped Stitch

Insert the tip of your left needle into the slipped stitch from the front — same motion as SKP Step 4. Pick it up from the front with just the needle tip.

SK2P Step 5: Pass the Slipped Stitch Over

Lift the slipped stitch up and over the K2TOG stitch and completely off the right needle.

You’ve completed an SK2P decrease! Three stitches went in, one stitch came out — a double decrease with a beautiful centered left-leaning point.

Look at the finished decrease — you’ll see the original center stitch sitting neatly on top, with the two outer stitches pulled in beneath it. That clean centered point is the signature look of SK2P and why it’s so popular in lace and leaf patterns!

SKP vs SK2P — Which One Do You Use?

The choice is easy — your pattern will almost always tell you which to use! But here’s a quick reference:

Use SKP when:

• Your pattern says SKP, sl1-k1-psso, or SSK
• You need to decrease by ONE stitch
• You want a left-leaning single decrease for balanced shaping

Use SK2P when:

• Your pattern says SK2P, sl1-k2tog-psso, or CDD
• You need to decrease by TWO stitches at once
• You want a centered double decrease for a sharp decorative point in lace or shaping

SKP vs SSK — What’s the Actual Difference?

This is one of the most Googled knitting questions, so let’s settle it once and for all!

Both SKP and SSK are left-leaning single decreases. The difference is in the mechanics:

SKP (Slip 1, Knit 1, Pass Slipped Stitch Over):

• Slip 1 knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over
• The slipped stitch ends up on top of the decrease, lying slightly twisted
• Slightly quicker to work
• Very common in older patterns

SSK (Slip, Slip, Knit):

• Slip 2 stitches knitwise one at a time, then insert left needle through both and knit together
• Both stitches are reoriented before knitting, creating a neater, flatter result
• Slightly more steps but cleaner looking
• More common in modern patterns

In practice, the difference is very subtle — most knitters and most patterns treat them as interchangeable. If you prefer one over the other, feel free to substitute. The finished fabric will look essentially the same!

Troubleshooting Common Problems

My SKP decrease looks twisted or messy. Almost always caused by slipping the stitch purlwise instead of knitwise. Make sure your right needle enters the stitch from left to right (knitwise) when slipping. Purlwise slipping reorients the stitch the wrong way and creates a twisted-looking decrease.

The slipped stitch won’t pass over cleanly — it keeps catching. Try using just the very tip of your left needle for the pass-over motion. If you’ve gone too far into the stitch with the needle, it can catch on the stitch below. A light, precise flick with the tip works better than a big scooping motion.

My SK2P looks uneven or lumpy. Check that your K2TOG in Step 2 was worked with relaxed tension — SK2P decreases can look bunched if the K2TOG stitch is worked too tightly. Try consciously relaxing your tension on the K2TOG portion of the stitch.

I can’t find the slipped stitch after knitting. Look to the right of (behind) the most recently knitted stitch on your right needle. The slipped stitch is always sitting there waiting — it’s just slightly hidden behind the knit stitch. If in doubt, count the stitches on your right needle to confirm which one is the slipped stitch.

My decrease count is off — I have too many or too few stitches. SKP decreases by 1 stitch, SK2P decreases by 2 stitches. Make sure you’re accounting for the correct reduction in your stitch count. Also double-check that you’re passing the slipped stitch completely off the needle — if it stays on, you haven’t completed the decrease.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I substitute SSK for SKP? In most cases yes! Both are left-leaning single decreases and look very similar in finished fabric. SSK is slightly neater looking in many yarns. The only time you shouldn’t substitute is if the pattern specifically notes that the stitch appearance matters for a particular design effect.

Is SK2P the same as CDD (Central Double Decrease)? Yes — CDD and SK2P are different names for the same stitch. Some designers prefer CDD because it describes what the stitch does (centered double decrease) rather than how it’s worked. If you see CDD in a pattern, work it exactly like SK2P!

Why does my pattern use SKP on one side and K2TOG on the other? This is intentional mirrored shaping! K2TOG leans right, SKP leans left. Using them on opposite sides of a decrease section (like a hat crown or shawl) creates symmetrical shaping where both sides mirror each other beautifully. This paired decrease technique is one of the things that makes handknit garments look truly professional.

Can I use SK2P anywhere a pattern just says “decrease 2”? Yes — SK2P is a double decrease that reduces by 2 stitches. It works wherever you need to decrease by 2 in a single move. Just make sure the left-leaning direction is appropriate for your pattern — some double decrease situations call for a right-leaning double decrease instead.

Does it matter if I slip knitwise or purlwise? For SKP and SK2P — yes, it absolutely matters! Always slip knitwise (as if to knit) for these decreases. Slipping purlwise changes the orientation of the stitch and creates a twisted, messier-looking decrease.

Where will I most commonly see SKP in patterns? Hat crown decreases are the most common place beginners encounter SKP. A classic hat crown decrease round might say something like “K6, SKP, repeat around” — alternating with K2TOG rounds to reduce the crown evenly from all sides. Shawl patterns and lace patterns are the other most common places!

Hope this tutorial brought you lots of joy and skills you can keep for life! ❤️

These two stitches open up a beautiful world of lace knitting, decorative shaping, and professional-looking projects. Once you know your left-leaning decreases AND your right-leaning decreases, you have the full toolkit for shaping anything!

~Angie

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